Saturday, June 14, 2008

Wellington, Red Rocks and Mt Victoria


I have just returned from spending a short time visiting my mother at Raumati Beach in New Zealand.

I read in Viv’s Blog http://strollingplayer.blogspot.com/ about retrieving old memories. (I think that is what she was saying) This thought came back to me as the plane tipped onto its side as it made it’s approach to Wellington Airport.
There was a sudden break in the clouds we got a glimpse of the Southern Coast line at the base of the North Island and then the houses on Mount Victoria as the plane turned to make the landing.

As we circled around the barren and wind swept Southern Coast I could see the path we used to walk in the winter to visit the seal colony that wintered-over in the area known as Red Rocks.

It was a wonderful trek on a clear frosty morning. There is a flat area, about the width of a two lane road, between the steep jagged hills and the rocky coast line. The sun is there in the early morning and disappears behind the steep hills about noon - 8.30am isn’t too early to start on a winter’s morning.
The sun glistens on the spray as the sea throws itself against the rocky out-crops, bull kelp lies in heaps on the shore and swirls in great brown swaths at the edge of the sea. The only sounds are the sea, the screech of sea birds, an occasional plane overhead and at the end of the journey the bark of the seals.

That was then. Nowadays I’m told there is no need to walk carrying a pack with lunch and drinks. Tour buses charge along, followed by SUVs and any other vehicle whose owner thinks it can drive off-road.

If this is true the days of relaxing as you walk this rugged route with children who explore and energetic dogs that chase sea gulls, with no thought of a passing vehicle, have gone.

I guess this is the modern tourism dilemma. More people get to explore the area, see the seals in their natural habitat and experience the exhilaration of that starkly beautiful landscape. To allow this something is lost.


The quick glimpse of the Mt Victoria was nostalgic.

Wellington is ranked number 12 in the recent list of the world's "Most Liveable Cities". I didn’t know this ranking when I flew into Wellington and as we swept over Mt Victoria I got a view of the houses in Shannon Street. I have spent some wonderful evenings in a couple of these houses with the city at my feet. Memories flashed across my mind in a sort of an emotional and visual kaleidoscope. Memories of great meals, hours of conversation and wine, the breath taking views of the city at night, of the wind hitting and bashing at the houses and the sway giving a feeling like being in a storm at sea.
It was windy that afternoon and the bumpy landing at Wellington Airport could be an equally good description for a storm experienced in a house in Shannon Street.. It rocked and bumped until finally we touched down on the tarmac.
Wellington has charm and character and those old wooden houses with stunning views are stunning places to live especially if you enjoy experiencing all facets of the weather. They catch the late afternoon sun on a cold winter’s day and are the envy of all those people who have been in shade since early afternoon.

My home now is in the 17th "Most Liveable City". I am happy with that but there is something unique about the 12th city – the most Southern Capital City in the world. It does seep into your soul and leave its mark.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

The views were certainly amazing, and I guess all those steps up to Shannon Street trimmed any weight off. Do you remember the intense golden colour of the gorse shining from the hills? My heart does a kind of flip when I remember the gorse on a winter day, along with the warmth of the sun sparkling on the water - even if only for an hour or two. It occurs to me that relationships were (are) especially intense in the capital of NZ.